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Northern Portugal
The Roman road to the monastery of Santa Maria
Back to Routes
Descending into Brufe
Path through the granite hills
The hills above Germil
Abrigos and horned cattle
The lake at Campo do Geres
Soajo espigueiros
Autumn light
Porto river front
Roman milestones
No tractors here!
At a glance
7 nights (6 days walking) - the full route. We recommend adding nights in Porto. See 'Prices' tab for what's included.
Suggested route pairing: Galicia - Lighthouse Way
How much walking?
Full days: 11-23 km per day, 3-6¼ hrs walking
Using shortening options: 8-17km per day, 2-4 hrs (using lifts)
The Roman road to the monastery of Santa Maria
Hidden away in the golden hills and lush green valleys of north-western Portugal are delightful villages where rural communities continue a lifestyle that is centuries old. These villages (where farmers keep long-horned cattle, fed on maize stored in distinctive granite espigueiros) are linked by old paved tracks and footpaths (which you will use) across the hills. Feast on bacalhau (cod) at Brufe’s remarkable Restaurant Abocanhado (not included in holiday price), walk along a Roman road high above the valley, and end at a magnificent monastery, now converted into a top hotel.
As with many On Foot routes, this is a linear walk with no transfers along the way, so you reach your final destination with an added sense of achievement. You can also add a day or two in historic Porto (best at the start, to make effective use of cheap public transport).
NB: The Peneda-Geres National Park Authority insists that lone walkers are experienced and well-equipped (preferably using our GPS files).
Walked by On Foot staff: Simon, Mary (& Joe)
Consider pairing this route with Galicia – Lighthouse Way (4 hrs by bus and taxi) – for more details click here.
REVIEWS: For independent walker reviews submitted to the Association of Independent Tour Operators visit Aito.com.
TRAVEL ADVICE: To find the latest travel advice from the Foreign & Commonwealth Office for UK citizens travelling to Portugal, click here. Citizens of other nations will also find it useful, but should always check their appropriate local agency.
Route Highlights
- The gentle hills of north-west Portugal
- Old villages and older ways of life
- Ancient paved footpaths and the Via Romana
- The view from the terrace of the Restaurant Abocanhado
- Lindoso Castle above the lake
- The Pousada Santa Maria do Bouro
- Historic Porto, the Port lodges and the Douro (add-on)
This route features the following characteristics and interests: Remote, Villages and farms, Drive to route
Things you should know
- The Peneda-Geres National Park is wild and remote – you will see few other walkers, but plenty of wildlife.
- Vegans and vegetarians may not fare so well in this rural area, where Barrosa beef and bacalhau are staples on the menu. Dinner is often served late.
- Some long walking days enable you to be out all day long, but be warned – the weather can be extreme at times.
We Recommend
Leave enough time in your holiday to spend a couple of nights in the unique city of Porto, home to the Port lodges along the Douro. This is well done at the beginning of the holiday as public transport works best from here.
Eating and Drinking
One of the joys of Northern Portugal is the warmth of the welcome you’ll receive from your hosts. The food is hearty and wholesome and we can guarantee that you’ll find it hard to lose weight on this walk. Try Caldo Verde soup, the ubiquitous bacalhau and beef from the barrosã cow. Eggs, honey and almonds also feature in many of the lovely puddings and cakes you’ll sample during your stay.
How much Walking?
Using shortening options: 8-17km per day, 2-4 hrs (using lifts)
Paths, some rocky/steep, and granite paved tracks. Compass skills essential. Highest point on route: 900m.
Medium-hard: Average cumulative uphill stretches (CUSs) 652m (420m-1260m) per day.
Easy-medium: CUSs 362m (200m – 580m) using shortening options.
Acrophobia/vertigo warnings: Small sections of this route may affect those with severe acrophobia (Ermida to Brufe) – avoidable by missing latter half of Lindoso to Brufe walk.
On Foot Holidays Companion app available from 2025, for GPS navigation/mapping and all other documentation and advice. Separate GPX files for your own device also available. GPS is strongly advised for the second half of the Lindoso to Brufe walk in particular.
Important note: Times given for each day are walking times for an “average” walker and exclude stops. “CUSs” stands for “Cumulative Uphill Stretches” and measures the aggregated ascents in each day, expressed in metres of climb. See “Walk Grading” for more information.
When to go?
The best months to walk: April, May, early June, late September, October
Other possible months: Late June is also possible but be warned – it’s also very hot.
Great walking in spring (but you may be unlucky with rain). Summer walking (late June) could be hot and is expensive. Fabulous autumn walking accompanied by the smell of grapes… Avoid being in Brufe in spring and autumn on Tuesday nights which is the restaurant’s closed day.
Start Dates
Weather Chart
Temperature and rainfall chart for Braga
Itinerary
Day 1 - Arrive in Soajo
Arrive in Soajo. Freshen up, have a wander around the village, examine your first espigueiros cluster and decide which restaurant to eat in before a good night’s sleep.
Day 2 - A Soajo circuit
Uphill first on good paths, you reach the hamlet of Adrão. Then choose an easy or a challenging route back to Soajo. (Hard: 5½ hrs walking (allow 7¼ hrs), 17½ km (11 miles), CUSs 815m, or shorter/easier circuit easy-medium: 2½ hrs walking (allow 3¼ hrs), 8½ km (5½ miles), CUSs 360m)
Day 3 - Soajo to Lindoso
An easy day’s walking along old paths in the river valley before climbing up to the well-preserved castle, lording over the attractive village and its espigueiros, nestling like chicks in its protective embrace. (Medium: 4¼ hrs walking (allow 5¾ hrs), 11½ km (7 miles), CUSs 580m)
Day 4 - Lindoso to Brufe
For the determined walker, the unshortened route is tough but rewarding, up in the wild Serra Amarela, before dropping down steeply to cross the spectacular Ribeira de Carcerelha. Then up to the mountain village of Germil, and up again before heading down through steadily gentler country to your accommodation at Brufe, and an evening meal at Brufe’s renowned Restaurant Abocanhado (not included in holiday price).
From Easy: 2 hrs walking (allow 2¾ hrs), 5 km (3 miles), CUSs 380m to Hard: 7½ hrs walking (allow 10 hrs), 22¾ km (14 miles), CUSs 1130m for serial walkers. The second half of the walk (Ermida to Germil) is challenging and we advise using our GPS files (either on your smart phone or a GPS unit) for navigation, depending on path conditions. There are other options available for this day using taxis as necessary.)
Option
Consider staying an extra night at Brufe to rest and relax, or to walk to Casarotas and the Wolf Trap and back (Medium: 4½ hrs walking (allow 6 hrs), 11½ km (7 miles), CUSs 500m - navigable only with the aid of GPS.)
Day 5 - Brufe to Campo do Gerês
From lovely Brufe the walk drops down steeply through old terraces to the Roman bridge over the Rio Homem. Then climb up through attractive woodland along a ridge to the village of Campo do Gerês, and your hotel. Extend your walk to the old drowned village of Vilarinho. (Easy-medium: 4¼ hrs walking (allow 5¾ hrs), 10½ km (6½ miles), CUSs 480m)
Day 6 - Campo do Gerês to Emaús
Walk along the old Roman road (Braga to Astorga) as it contours around the hillside, gently descending towards Chorense and Emaús. The walking is easy, generally on a level grassy surface, with Roman mileposts along the way. At Emaús, your charming pension and a swim in the garden pool (in season). (Medium: 6¾ hrs walking (allow 9 hrs), 21 km (13 miles), CUSs 225m, or easy-medium: 4 hrs walking (allow 5¼ hrs), 16 km (10 miles), CUSs 225m with lift at start)
Day 7 - Emaús to Santa Maria do Bouro
After a steep climb back to the Roman road, a more gentle climb to the pass at Alto Moraço. From here the walking is now steadily downhill through woods and fields to the former monastery, now Pousada Santa Maria do Bouro, a stylish end to your holiday and with the promise of a swim in the pool and an excellent meal. (Medium: 3½ hrs walking (allow 4¼ hrs), 11½ km (7 miles), CUSs 490m or easy: 2 hrs walking (allow 2¾ hrs), 8 km (5 miles), CUSs 200m using lift at start)
Departure day
Depart hotel or choose to stay further nights, or why not go to Porto and explore its charms and visit a port lodge?
Travel Information
ARRIVING BY TRAIN
Nearest railway station:
Start: Braga
Finish: Braga
Note: There are four direct trains from Lisbon to Braga daily. See www.cp.pt
We suggest thetrainline.com for times, ticket booking and other information. For the Porto to Braga stretch use www.cp.pt.
ARRIVING BY CAR
Leave your car in Soajo, Lindoso or Brufe (depending on start point), on a quiet street near accommodation. Taxi back to car – book locally through hotel ~€90.
ARRIVING BY AIR
The best “local” airport is Porto. Intercontinental travellers can land at Lisbon, then catch the express bus to Arcos de Valdevez and local taxi onwards to first accommodation (necessitates an overnight stay in Lisbon).
Land by: 11:45 for reliable public transport connections to first accommodation (but see Porto starts below).
Return flight earliest: 11:00 for connections from Santa Mario do Bouro
Land by/earliest return flight times not applicable if using a pre-booked taxi from airport to first hotel OR if staying a night in Porto at the start (recommended).
Flight information can change rapidly and not all flights run daily. Please do check directly with the airlines’ websites or Skyscanner (see below) before finalising any booking with us. Do not book your flights until we have confirmed that we have provisionally reserved accommodation for you.
For up-to-date schedules and flights from all airports check Skyscanner.
See “Getting to the start of the walk” below for transfer information.
Getting to the start of the walk
Best airport is Porto and transfer times and methods are suggested for Porto airport below. For train arrival transfers see below.
Note: if you would like to stay a night or two in Porto, this is best done at the start of the walk, to avail yourself of the excellent express bus service from Porto city to the route itself.
PORTO AIRPORT:
Outward: Best then by bus to Braga (bookable online) followed by pre-bookable taxi to first accommodation on walking route (2-4 hrs depending on flight arrival time) OR pre-bookable taxi transfer from Porto airport to the first accommodation (~2 hrs).
Return: Local taxi to Braga then bus to airport (total around 2 hrs) or bus/train to Porto city (2 1/2 hrs total) OR pre-bookable taxi transfer from the final hotel on the walk to Porto airport (1½ hrs) OR to Porto hotel (2 hrs).
Transfers from Braga train station:
Outward: Bus to Arcos de Valdevez then local taxi, OR pre-bookable taxi transfer all the way to first accommodation.
Return: Local taxi (~€30), or bus to Braga bus station then short taxi.
For all pre-bookable taxi prices, see “Prices”
Full transfer advice, including timetables, is provided in your Walkers’ Pack. Contact us if you would like additional pre-booking information.
Where You'll Stay
There’s a lovely choice of accommodation offered on this route; from friendly pensions to traditional Portuguese houses (‘like staying in a museum’), through to the amazing pousada (a converted monastery with a grass roof), at the end of the route in Santa Maria do Bouro.
Night 1 & 2
Debra's three traditional houses, newly renovated, are in the centre of the village or a short walk away.
Night 3
Lindoso – Casa da Fonte de Tornada (B&B)
Stay in one of Bia's comfortable houses in the heart of the village.
Night 4
Brufe – Leiras do Tempo (Casas do Abocanhado) (B&B)
A group of village houses adapted into high quality accommodation with access to swimming pool (in season), esplanade and bar, all set in a stunning upland setting.
Night 5
Campo do Geres – Albergaria Stop (B&B)
Modern family-run inn with good restaurant and pool (in season).
Night 6
Emaus – Quinta do Barrio (B&B)
Restored 18th century farm house with its own chapel and a swimming pool. Twin rooms are subject to a supplement.
Night 7
Santa Maria do Bouro – Pousada Mosteiro de Amares (B&B)
Exquisite conversion of 13th century monastery with fine restaurant and pool. Stays on a Saturday are subject to a supplement.
Soajo – Casas de Debra (B&B)
Debra's three traditional houses, newly renovated, are in the centre of the village or a short walk away.
Lindoso – Casa da Fonte de Tornada (B&B)
Stay in one of Bia's comfortable houses in the heart of the village.
Brufe – Leiras do Tempo (Casas do Abocanhado) (B&B)
A group of village houses adapted into high quality accommodation with access to swimming pool (in season), esplanade and bar, all set in a stunning upland setting. A mix of double bedded rooms and twin bedded apartments (supplement for twins).
Website
Campo do Geres – Albergaria Stop (B&B)
Modern family-run inn with good restaurant and pool (in season).
Website
Emaus – Quinta do Barrio (B&B)
Restored 18th century farm house with its own chapel and a swimming pool. Twin rooms are subject to a supplement.
Website
Santa Maria do Bouro – Pousada Mosteiro de Amares (B&B)
Exquisite conversion of 13th century monastery with fine restaurant and pool. Stays on a Saturday are subject to a supplement.
Website
Porto
There are many lovely places to stay in Porto (and more springing up all the time – see TripAdvisor) and you are welcome to book these yourself (we can tell you where previous clients have stayed and enjoyed).
We like the Pousada Rua das Flores (below), which occupies a restored 18th century building on an attractive pedestrianised street, a short walk from the main attractions of Porto.
Prices
Total 7 nights in double/twin room, all breakfasts, 6 picnics and taxi to/from Emaus restaurant, luggage transfers between all hotels on walking route; full Walkers Pack with route directions, maps, transfer and background information; local telephone support.
Also included: On Foot Holidays Companion app (from 2025), providing navigation/mapping and digital version of the Walkers’ Pack as above. Separate GPX files for your own device also available. If choosing to walk with app only (no printed materials): Discount of £40 per pack (based on one pack per room) from 2025.
All prices are per person unless otherwise indicated, and are based on a standard booking in May. Prices may vary seasonally and a fixed price will be given to you before you commit.
Single Room Supplement (SRS): From £355
Lone Traveller Additional Supplement (LTAS): From £200
Large Party Saving (LPS): Groups of more than 2 people (on an identical itinerary, on the same booking and booked at the same time) – discount of at least £20 per person
Maximum party size: 8
Add Ons
Extra nights in the Pousada at Santa Maria do Bouro: Contact On Foot – prices vary seasonally. Stays on a Saturday night are subject to a supplement.
Nights in Porto hotels and extra nights in other hotels: Contact On Foot Holiday
Taxi transfers:
To Soajo from Porto Airport 2 hrs: From £143 (1-3 people), from Porto hotel 2.5 hrs: From £154 (1-3 people), or from Braga train or bus station: From £72 (1-3 people)
Final hotel on the walk to Porto airport 1½ hrs: From £102 (1-3 people), or to Porto centre from £121 (1-3 people) or to Braga: From £40
Between Porto airport and Porto hotel: From £32 (1-3 people, central Porto)
Other local bus/taxi/train as required: Arrange locally
Larger group transfers: Contact On Foot Holidays
Sending Walkers Packs to addresses outside the UK: £20-£60 (per pack, location dependent)
Our local team
Sandra Lopes
Sandra spent her childhood in Canada before returning to Portugal with her parents. After time teaching in Porto she returned to Lindoso to work with her mother offering accommodation in the village. Sandra is an English teacher and loves being out and about enjoying the environs of the national park she’s so pleased to call home.
