Galicia: Lighthouse Way

Itinerary

Day 1 - Arrive in Malpica

You reach Malpica normally by taxi from Santiago or A Coruña airport. Settle in, have a look round this fishing port and select somewhere to eat (your first seafood supper of many?).

Day 2 - Malpica to Niñons

A long first day, so some may prefer to stop at Barizo (12½km) where your accommodation is. For those who continue to Niñóns be warned that the stretch is tough, with a lot of up and down and tricky underfoot conditions. This second part is for the experienced walker only, but the lonely majesty of the peninsula makes up for it. Taxi back to Barizo.

The first stretch is easier and has several lovely beaches to tempt the swimmer, so be prepared. In common with most beaches on the Camino dos Faros there are no facilities of any sort – that, some might say, is their joy. (Medium-hard 6 hrs walking (allow 8 hrs), 20½ km (13 miles), CUSs 685m; or to Barizo Medium 3½ hrs walking (allow 4¾ hrs), 12½ km (8 miles), CUSs 350m).

Day 3 - Niñóns to Corme

A day of different sections. The first 4 km or so to Enseada de Barda is reasonably easy going until the descent to Barda beach, and has three excellent swimming beaches. After Barda however the walking comes first, with a long (4 km) stretch along the cliffs and a 1 km climb inland to Roncudo hamlet. The 1½ km to the lighthouse at Punto do Roncudo is magnificent – perfect contouring with the added delight of the lighthouse suddenly appearing round a rock. The final stretch of 4 km to Corme is along the road servicing the lighthouse – there is no other route, and it has the advantage of being quiet, easy walking at the end of a long day (taxi can be called). (Medium-hard: 6 hrs walking (allow 8 hrs), 16¼ km (10 miles), CUSs 570m. Alternative: ride with luggage to Barda and walk from there – Medium: 4½ hrs (allow 6 hrs), 12½ km (8 miles), CUSs 350m)

Day 4 - Corme to Laxe

A long but easier day, with a lot of variation and some fine seacoast walking, quite different from the previous two days. The first section to Praia de Balarés can be tough going, though worth it for the views, while the run in to Ponteceso is long and flat, encompassing sand dune and salt marsh habitats. After a short main road stretch there is a short section through quiet woodland, then a long, flat paved seashore cycle path which is far more fun than it sounds as it is easy walking with some terrific, yet varied views. Half an hour of quiet road walking follows, then some of the finest cliff walking the writer has found, with a lovely beach at the halfway point. The approach to Laxe is tremendous, finishing with a 700m stretch across the sand! (Medium-hard: 7¼ hrs walking (allow 9¾ hrs), 25½ km (16 miles), CUSs 450m. Alternative: ride with luggage to Ponteceso, then walk from there – Medium: 4½ hrs walking (allow 6 hrs), 16 km (10 miles), CUSs 300m).

Day 5 - Laxe to Camelle or Arou

A great day of some lovely contrasts, with the lighthouse of Laxe at the start, followed by some fabulous cliff walking, before cresting the hilltop at O Peñon, for a stunning view of the Praia do Soesto, your first great swimming beach. A gentle stroll follows round to the huge O Paio bay, and the walking is easy now all the way to Camelle. (Medium: 4¼ hrs walking (allow 5¾ hrs), 14¼ km (9 miles), CUSs 390m. If staying in Arou, add 1 hr walking (allow 1¼ hrs), 3¼ km (2 miles), CUSs 35m)

Day 6 - Camelle or Arou to Camariñas

The first part of this long day is the most arduous, as far as the Cimiterio dos Ingleses (3½ hrs), so this is a suitable drop-off point for those who would prefer an easier day. The fishing bases at Punta Lobeiras and Santa Marina give interest to the first two hours, while the remainder of the day is taken with golden beaches and sweeping vistas of the lighthouse at Cabo Vilán. Watch out for the sting in the tail though – the 8 km run-in to Camariñas after the lighthouse (though you could always call a taxi). (Medium-hard: 7¼ hrs walking (allow 9¾ hrs), 24¾ km (15½ miles), CUSs 470m. If staying in Arou: 6¼ hrs walking (allow 8¼ hrs), 21½ km (13½ miles), CUSs 435m. Shorter option – from Cimiterio des Ingleses after a taxi start: Medium 3¾ hrs walking (allow 5 hrs), 15 km (9½ miles), CUSs 300m)

Day 7 - Camariñas to Cereixo

Today’s walk couldn’t be any more different to those that came before if it tried. An easy day on good tracks and paths that wend their way inland to explore Galicia’s more rural side of life. There’s a chance for a swim at Ariño Beach which you cross on the way to A Ponte de Porto, where you should stop for lunch. Then follow the course of the River Porto to the fascinating site of Torres de Cereixo, before heading to Casal de Cereixo, a lovely converted farmhouse, for an excellent supper and a quiet night’s sleep.  (Easy-medium: 4 hrs walking (allow 5½ hrs), 15¾ km (10 miles), CUSs 250m)

Day 8 - Cereixo to Muxia

Having waved a fond “hasta luego” to your lovely hosts at Casal de Cereixo, today’s walk takes you quickly back to the Camino you left yesterday. Follow the Rio Porto to its mouth and you will suddenly realise how quiet the last day was, away from the crashing waves of the Atlantic. As you head to Muxia, you will visit the unspoilt village of Merexo and the deserted mills of Os Muinos. Swimming is definitely on the cards today too, with at least three beaches you could test out, conditions permitting. (Easy-medium: 4¾ hrs walking (allow 6¼ hrs), 15½ km (9½ miles), CUSs 375m)

Day 9 - Muxía to Lires

Let the drama begin again! After a couple of easier days, the excitement starts almost as soon as you leave your accommodation with a quick scramble up to the Monte Corpiño mirador with amazing views back to Muxia and beyond. Then explore the end of the peninsula and the Nosa Señora da Barca church and lighthouse before setting off for Lourido Beach and your first chance for a swim. Today is a long and quite tough walk (even though we have abridged it to keep it within the capabilities of most). Follow the coast and climb up to the top of Monte Pedrouzo before descending back to sea level at the beach of Moreira. After that, the going is easier and with a few more ups and downs, you will explore a more rural part of the coast before descending once more to the huge beach at Nemiña. Good roads and tracks then take you upriver to your much needed accommodation for the night in Lires. (Hard: 7¼ hrs walking (allow 9¾ hrs), 23½ km (14½ miles), CUSs 940m, or Medium: 2¼ hrs walking (allow 3 hrs), 9½ km (6 miles), CUSs 500m after a taxi start)

Day 10 - Lires to Finisterre

And so to the end of the world – Finisterre… and what an epic journey too! The day starts peacefully enough as you follow the path of the River Lires down to the point at which it disgorges into the Atlantic, but then you climb up to the cliff tops and spend much of the morning following the coastline. Then descend to the golden beach of Rostro – over a mile long and a perfect place to work on your sun tan.

It’s up to the cliff tops again after that and you’ll pass rocky coves far below but will sometimes feel the spray from the crashing waves even at this height. From the peak of Veladoiro you’ll be able to see Finisterre in the distance but it’s still quite a walk. A further chance for a swim as you pass the town of Fisterra and then, following a final climb to remind you that this is a pilgrimage, it’s onwards to the lighthouse where you may have chosen to stay for the night.  (Hard: 7¾ hrs walking (allow 10 hrs), 20¾ km (13 miles), CUSs 830m, or Medium: 4¼ hrs walking (allow 5¾ hrs), 11 km (7 miles), CUSs 400m after a taxi start)