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England: Dorset
Dorset - In the footsteps of Thomas Hardy
Back to Routes
The Jurassic Coast from Thorncombe Beacon
Thorncombe Beacon
Springtime
Cottages and millponds
Through the fields
Gold Hill, Shaftesbury
Cricket match at Milton Abbey
On Hambledon Hill
Milton Abbas village
Cerne Abbas Giant, ancient chalk hill figure
Lyme Regis
The Cobb at Lyme Regis
Lyme Regis harbour
Fossil hunting in the cliffs at Charmouth near Lyme Regis
Travellers Blog
Walking through Thomas Hardy’s Wessex
Wednesday 4th May | Posted by On Foot Staff
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At a glance
7 nights (6 days walking) - the full route. Extra nights possible at all accommodation. See 'Prices' tab for what's included.
Suggested route pairing: Devon, Coastal Exmoor, Cornwall
How much walking?
Full days: 15-24km per day, 4¼-7 hrs walking
Using shortening options: 10-17km per day, 3-5¾ hrs (using lifts)
From Salisbury to the Dorset Coast
Dorset in style! Our route discovers the Wessex that Thomas Hardy knew and loved so well.
Following an overnight stay in the beautiful cathedral city of Salisbury, and a short taxi ride to quiet Tisbury, the walk winds west past the romantic ruins of Old Wardour Castle (English Heritage) and then on to the Saxon hilltop town of Shaftesbury. The following day, after exploring the independent shops and eateries (not missing famous Gold Hill) a short transfer will take you to the village of Winterbourne Stickland. From here, you walk towards the south coast, exploring Dorset, one of England’s most beautiful counties, happening on quintessentially English villages and staying in some fascinating Hardy-esque inns.
Walk through the ‘new village’ of Milton Abbas with its rows of beautiful thatched cottages; through remote Bingham’s Melcombe and then Melcombe Bingham (yes, really) to idyllic Plush. A visit to the always-ready Cerne Abbas giant and then a night at Hardy’s Sow and Acorn Inn in Evershot is followed by a ramble over rolling hills to the bustling town of Bridport. Your last day is spent exploring the Jurassic Coast, a World Heritage Site, and enjoying the views from high up on Golden Cap, all the way to journey’s end, the fishing village of Lyme Regis. Hunt for fossils on the beach and walk along the Cobb (à la The French Lieutenant’s Woman), before feasting on a well-earned celebratory supper.
Walked by On Foot staff: Mary, Harriet, Emma, Simon, Fi
Consider pairing this route with Devon (1 hr by bus and train), Coastal Exmoor (3 hrs by bus and train), Cornwall (5 hrs by bus and train) – for more details click here.
REVIEWS: For independent walker reviews submitted to the Association of Independent Tour Operators visit Aito.com.
Watch our short film about Dorset, giving a taste of the green hills, pretty villages and cosy pubs, and the traditional English seaside town of Lyme Regis:
Route Highlights
- The medieval city of Salisbury with its stunning cathedral, home to the tallest spire in the UK. Take the ‘Tower Tour’ to see it up close!
- Idyllic rolling and unspoilt countryside with constant Thomas Hardy references. Don’t be surprised to see Tess walking forlornly in the distance…
- Shaftesbury – a Saxon hilltop town, and Gold Hill (remember the boy and the bike, from the Hovis advert?!)
- The imposing Cerne Abbas Giant – supposedly Saxon era hillside chalk figure
- Mapperton House and Gardens, used in the 2015 Far from the Madding Crowd film
- Dorset’s Jurassic Coast, Golden Cap and Lyme Regis – unofficial UK capital of fossil hunting!
- Quintessential English villages and inns with a great variety of food from hearty English fare in Plush to the more sophisticated offerings in Evershot.
- Old Wardour Castle (filming location Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves)
This route features the following characteristics and interests: Coast, Villages and farms, Drive to route, History
Things you should know
- Expect to encounter livestock – we will provide advice.
- There are limited taxis on some days, so shortening options are only as described.
- Be prepared for unpredictable weather! There could be rain or sun at any time.
- The navigation requires concentration – use of GPX files (provided) is recommended.
We Recommend
An extra night in Lyme Regis is strongly recommended as this intriguing seaside town has so much to offer - it is also home to some of the finest accommodation on the route. Also consider an extra day to relax and explore the local countryside at Thomas Hardy's "Sow and Acorn" in Evershot; a good mid-point to break up the walk and lots of local free-walking to do.
Eating and Drinking
A great chance to taste real English ales, hearty food and even the infamous Dorset Knob. The restaurants at the Brace of Pheasants and the Acorn are excellent. Also try Mark Hix’ Oyster and Fish House on Cobb Road in Lyme Regis (online reservations) and don’t miss fish and chips eaten al fresco on the seafront in Lyme (but watch out for hungry seagulls).
How much Walking?
Using shortening options: 10-17km per day, 3-5¾ hrs (using lifts)
Some smaller footpaths are used, mostly signed, though some not – careful attention to note details needed. Excellent maps. Basic compass skills essential.
Medium: Average CUSs per day 445m (320-640m, using shortening options 350m (250m-430m). Note: Coastal option on Day 7 – 750m.
Acrophobia/vertigo warnings: Only on the final day’s coastal walk (alternative option available).
On Foot Holidays Companion app available from 2025, for GPS navigation/mapping and all other documentation and advice. Separate GPX files for your own device also available.
Important note: Times given for each day are walking times for an “average” walker and exclude stops. “CUSs” stands for “Cumulative Uphill Stretches” and measures the aggregated ascents in each day, expressed in metres of climb. See “Walk Grading” for more information.
When to go?
The best months to walk: May, June, July, August, September, early October
Other possible months: April (be prepared for April showers!), late October
This walk is best in spring and autumn, but beware of shorter days at the beginning and end of the season, when it may also be rather wet and muddy! In August it may be hard for us to secure accommodation.
The best days to start: The 7 night option can only be started on a Wednesday due to single-night stay restrictions in Child Okeford and Evershot. Please be in touch for more advice (bearing in mind additional nights might negate these restrictions. Alternatively, consider the 6-night option which offers more date flexibility.
Start Dates
Weather Chart
Temperature and rainfall chart for Salisbury
Itinerary
Day 1 - Arrive in Salisbury
Visit the Cathedral and Close, enjoy the shops and have a meal in one of the city's pubs and restaurants.
Day 2 - Salisbury to Shaftesbury
After a short taxi ride to Tisbury, a gentle ramble through river valleys, past the ruins of Old Wardour Castle, and via villages and parkland to the hilltop town of Shaftesbury. Dine at a choice of pubs and restaurants. (Medium: 4¼ hrs walking (allow 5¾ hrs), 15 km (9½ miles), CUSs 350m)
Day 3 - Shaftesbury to Child Okeford
Head down famous Gold Hill into the Blackmore Vale, past water mills, and then up again to Ashmore (Dorset’s highest, and some say, prettiest village) and the woodlands and wide vistas of Cranborne Chase. Climb iron-age Hambledon Hill before dropping down into Child Okeford and enjoying a traditional pub supper. (Medium-hard: 7 hrs walking (allow 9¼ hrs), 24 km (15 miles), CUSs 475m, OR Medium: 4¾ hrs walking (allow 6¼ hrs), 17 km (10½ miles), CUSs 400m using initial lift with luggage)
Day 4 - Winterbourne Stickland to Plush
A veritable feast of a day for connoisseurs of Thomas Hardy, country churches, and the English landscape at its best. After a short transfer (included), leave the Stour valley and climb back up into the hills, dropping then into much-photographed Milton Abbas complete with ancient abbey. Then, walking through picturesque Dorset countryside, discover the church at Hilton, and feudal and almost inaccessible Bingham’s Melcombe (more Hardy), before heading for the heights at the Dorset Gap and supper and overnight at the perfect thatched pub. (Medium: 5¼ hrs walking (allow 7 hrs), 18 km (11½ miles), CUSs 455m, OR Easy-medium: 4 hrs walking (allow 5¼ hrs), 14 km (9 miles), CUSs 315m using lift at start)
Option
If the Brace of Pheasants in Plush is unavailable, then you can extend the transfer at the start of the day as far as Milton Abbas. Walk from there past Plush, to Cerne Abbas and stay in the historic New Inn. This makes the day a little longer (21 km) but shortens the following day to Evershot by 7 km (15 km).
Day 5 - Plush to Evershot
A switchback day of five valleys and four ridges, taking in lunch at pretty Cerne Abbas, famous for its virile giant carved in the chalk. Then a lovely walk up through Cerne Park and over to the Sydling valley, remote and agricultural, and to the next – Frome St Quentin and its old church, before finally reaching Evershot, and staying in Hardy’s old “Sow and Acorn”. (Medium-hard: 7 hrs walking (allow 9¼ hrs), 22 km (14 miles), CUSs 640m, OR Medium: 4 hrs walking (allow 5¼ hrs), 14 km (9 km), CUSs 400m using lift at start)
Day 6 - Evershot to Bridport
This beautiful and easier walk takes in some gorgeous countryside – ancient lanes, former parkland, a country house garden and a watermill. Garden lovers should visit Mapperton; take tea at the Mill at Mangerton, and the final walk into Bridport will surprise you in its tranquility. At journey’s end, explore Georgian Bridport too – in July you might catch its annual folk festival, with music and Morris dancing in the streets. (Medium: 5 hrs walking (allow 6¾ hrs), 20 km (12½ miles), CUS 320m OR Easy-medium: 4¾ hrs walking (allow 6¼ hrs), 17 km (10½ miles), CUSs 255m using lift at start)
Day 7 - Bridport to Lyme Regis
A day of two options – either join the South West Coast Path at West Bay and enjoy an undulating (!) walk with fabulous views along the Jurassic Coast (Medium-hard: 5¾ hrs walking (allow 7¾ hrs), 19 km (12 miles), CUSs 750m) or continue your treat of unspoilt Dorset countryside, villages and churches, with lunch at Whitchurch Canonicorum before joining the end of the Wessex Ridgeway as it snakes its way craftily through Lyme’s back door. (Medium-hard: 6 hrs walking (allow 8 hrs), 21 km (12½ miles), CUSs 430m)
Departure day
Depart for home (or choose to stay further nights)
Travel Information
ARRIVING BY TRAIN
Nearest railway station:
Start: Salisbury
Finish: Axminster
ARRIVING BY CAR
Budget approx £75 for seven days’ parking (or ~£30 for Axminster, max stay seven days).
Park in Lyme Regis – drive to Lyme Regis, bus/taxi to Axminster then train to Salisbury; collect car at end.
Park in Axminster – drive to Axminster then train to Salisbury; bus/taxi to Axminster at end to collect car.
Park in Salisbury – park and walk to first hotel; at end take bus/taxi to Axminster and train back to Salisbury to collect car.
ARRIVING BY AIR
The best “local” airport is either Bournemouth, Southampton or Bristol. Intercontinental flights use London Heathrow or London Gatwick.
Land by: 16:00 for public transport connections to Salisbury (~2 hrs).
Return flight earliest: 12:00 for public transport connections from Axminster (~3 hrs)
In view of the large number of suitable airports in the south of England, if your inward flight lands after 16:00 or your return flight takes off before 12:00, please contact us for transfer advice.
Flight information can change rapidly and not all flights run daily. Please do check directly with the airlines’ websites or Skyscanner (see below) before finalising any booking with us. Do not book your flights until we have confirmed that we have provisionally reserved accommodation for you.
For up-to-date schedules and flights from all airports check Skyscanner.
See “Getting to the start of the walk” below for transfer information.
Getting to the start of the walk
The first hotel is in the medieval city of Salisbury and the last in Lyme Regis, a lovely old fishing village. Transfer times and methods are suggestions from London Gatwick and London Heathrow airports, but if you arrive at either Bristol, Bournemouth or Southampton airports, then transfer times will be shorter in most cases.
LONDON GATWICK
Outward: Train to Salisbury (2½ hrs) then short walk or local taxi to first hotel
Return: Bus or local taxi to Axminster, then train to London Gatwick (~3½ hrs)
LONDON HEATHROW
Outward: Bus to Woking, then train to Salisbury (~2½ hrs), then short walk or local taxi to first hotel
Return: Bus or local taxi to Axminster, train to Woking then bus to Heathrow (~3½ hrs)
Buy tickets for the bus between Woking and Heathrow here and buy your train tickets in advance for cheaper rates. Use www.thetrainline.com for the most user-friendly site (booking fee applies).
Full transfer advice, including timetables, is provided in your Walkers’ Pack. Contact us if you would like additional pre-booking information.
Where You'll Stay
The accommodation along this route varies from small-and-friendly B&Bs and picturesque pubs to a newly-renovated townhouse hotel in Lyme Regis, with surprisingly spacious rooms.
Upgrade hotels available in Salisbury, Child Okeford, Bridport and Lyme Regis. Accommodation in Child Okeford, Evershot and Lyme Regis requires a 2 night minimum stay at weekends (Fri/Sat nights).
Night 1
Salisbury – Chapter House (B&B)
A friendly pub with comfortable rooms in a historic building just steps from the Cathedral Close.
Night 5
Traditional hotel with Hardy connections. Small rooms but full of character. Two night minimum stay at weekends.
Night 6
Bridport – The Bridge House Hotel (B&B)
Well appointed family-run hotel with excellent facilities. Rooms are thoughtfully furnished, welcoming and comfortable.
Night 6 (Upgrade)
Bridport – The Bull Hotel (B&B)
Stylish hotel with individually designed rooms. Two night minimum stay at weekends.
Night 7
Lyme Regis – Lyme Townhouse (B&B)
Compact contemporary rooms in a Grade II listed building, close to the center of Lyme Regis. Two night minimum stay at weekends.
Night 7 (Upgrade)
Lyme Regis – The Rock Point Inn (B&B)
Charming seafront accommodation with popular restaurant.
Salisbury – Chapter House (B&B)
A friendly pub with comfortable rooms in a historic building just steps from the Cathedral Close.
Website
Salisbury – The White Hart (B&B)
Modern hotel in the town centre with comfortable, if unexciting rooms. An excellent location within easy walking distance of all the main attractions.
Website
Cerne Abbas – The New Inn (B&B)
Used if the Brace of Pheasants is unavailable. Choose from the atmospheric rooms of the main building which exude olde worlde charm; or the modern rooms facing the courtyard which may be a little quieter.
Website
Evershot – The Acorn (B&B)
Traditional hotel with Hardy connections. Small rooms but full of character. Two night minimum stay at weekends.
Website
Bridport – The Bridge House Hotel (B&B)
Well appointed family-run hotel with excellent facilities. Rooms are thoughtfully furnished, welcoming and comfortable.
Website
Bridport – The Bull Hotel (B&B)
Stylish hotel with individually designed rooms. Two night minimum stay at weekends.
Website
Lyme Regis – Lyme Townhouse (B&B)
Compact contemporary rooms in a Grade II listed building, close to the center of Lyme Regis. Two night minimum stay at weekends.
Website
Lyme Regis – The Mariners Hotel (B&B)
Former 17th century coaching inn where Beatrix Potter stayed when she was young. Traditional decor and some of the rooms have a sea view. Minimum two-night stay on Fri/Sat nights.
Website
Lyme Regis – The Rock Point Inn (B&B)
Small but well-furnished rooms, some offering a sea view
Website
Alternative accommodation in Salisbury
The Cathedral City has a few excellent B&Bs, some of which require a two-night minimum stay, so extend your visit if you can. There are also several hotels which can comfortably accommodate the weary traveller.
Alternative accommodation in Bridport
There are many wonderful places to stay in Bridport and we have selected our favourites above. We also use…
The Tiger Inn is an atmospheric and lively pub in the centre of town. We usually use the rooms on the third floor which are well protected against noise from the bar below.
Alternative accommodation in Lyme Regis
Lyme Regis has some excellent places to stay but can fill up quickly on weekends and holidays. In the event that our usual accommodation is full, we also use…
Lyme One Hotel, a recently refurbished Georgian townhouse with eight individually decorated rooms. Situated near the town centre, this is a great option for two-night stays. Continental breakfast is served in a bespoke hamper and delivered to your door in the morning.
Dorset House is a fantastic place to stay with elegant rooms and meticulous attention to detail; one of the On Foot team’s favourite accommodations. However, securing availability is challenging as the rooms become booked several months in advance. If you wish to stay here, you will need to plan ahead! Minimum two night stay – sometimes longer in July and August.
Prices
Total 7 nights in double/twin room, 7 breakfasts (breakfast hamper in room in Lyme), short transfer at the start of Day 4 and luggage transfers from Tisbury to Lyme Regis; full Walkers Pack with route directions, maps, transfer and background information; local telephone support.
Also included: On Foot Holidays Companion app (from 2025), providing navigation/mapping and digital version of the Walkers’ Pack as above. Separate GPX files for your own device also available. If choosing to walk with app only (no printed materials): Discount of £40 per pack (based on one pack per room) from 2025.
All prices are per person unless otherwise indicated, and are based on a standard booking in May. Prices may vary seasonally and a fixed price will be given to you before you commit.
Single Room Supplement (SRS): From £440
Lone Traveller Additional Supplement (LTAS): From £275
Large party saving (LPS): Groups of more than 2 people (on an identical itinerary, on the same booking and booked at the same time) – discount of at least £45 per person
Maximum party size: please enquire
Please note that weekend stays (Fri and Sat nights) in Evershot and Lyme Regis will be subject to a minimum 2 night stay and a supplement.
Add Ons
Extra nights in any hotel along the route: Contact On Foot Holidays (seasonal pricing)
Sending Walkers Packs to addresses outside the UK: £20-£60 (per pack, location dependent)
Travellers Blog
Walking through Thomas Hardy’s Wessex
Wednesday 4th May | Posted by On Foot Staff
view article
Our local team
On Foot Holidays team
This route has been designed by the staff team at On Foot Holidays in Salisbury.
