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Cilento National Park
Coastal and mountain paths in an ever-changing scenery
Back to Routes
Sunset at Santa Maria di Castellabate
The view from Castellabate
Agropoli, the start of your adventure
Views towards the Amalfi Coast
Hilltop Castellabate
The wash-house at Perdifumo
Santa Maria di Castellabate
Visit the Preta Ru Mulacchio rocks
Pretty Castellabate
Expansive views from Rocca Cilento
Journey's end at Acciaroli
Add a visit to the temples at Paestum
Travellers Blog
NEW ROUTE – Cilento National Park
Wednesday 21st August | Posted by On Foot Staff
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At a glance
Cilento - 7 nights (6 walking days) - the standard route. Consider adding nights in Paestum at either end and/or a rest day anywhere along the route. See 'Prices' tab for what's included.
Suggested route pairing: Amalfi Coast, Southern Tuscany or Umbria
6 nights possible by having only one night in Santa Maria/Castellabate.
How much walking?
Full days: 8-23 km per day, 3-7 hrs walking
Using shortening options: 8-12 kms, 2¼-3 hrs with shortening options and some lifts
Coastal and mountain paths in an ever-changing scenery
The Cilento National Park is located in Campania, considered to be the real beginning of Italy’s south. In Roman times, this region was known as Campania Felix (Happy Land), and still today it’s not hard to see why.
Our walk follows coastal paths between the medieval towns of Agropoli and Santa Maria di Castellabate – the latter, along with hilltop Castellabate, appeared in the cult Italian film ‘Benvenuti al Sud’. Then you’ll head around Punta Licosa, a rocky outlook named after one of the sirens Ulysses met in ‘The Odyssey’. The path follows closely around the coast’s edge and climbs into the mountains, affording fabulous views across to Cilento’s better known neighbours, the Amalfi Coast and Capri, on a clear day.
Explore Castellabate, one of I Borghi più belli d’Italia (the most beautiful villages in Italy), before an easier but nonetheless glorious walk to Perdifumo and a lift onwards to Rocca Cilento, where you will spend two nights, walking the Valley of the Mills on your second day. Then comes one of our favourite walks – a steady climb up to Monte Stella, the spiritual heart of ancient Cilento, before a gentle descent through chestnut woods to a welcoming agriturismo just below Galdo.
Our final walk to the quiet fishing village of Acciaroli, said to inspire Ernest Hemingway’s ‘Old Man and the Sea’, does not disappoint either. Visit Celso, where the rebellion of 1848 began, and then pass through a succession of small, historical villages, each with its own story to tell.
Standing in Castellabate in 1811, Napoleon’s brother-in-law (King of Naples in the early 1800s) uttered the words now engraved on the castle walls – “Qui non si muore” (here you do not die). Well, he wasn’t entirely right, but Cilento has an extraordinary number of centenarians – some say it’s the Mediterranean diet, others that the stairs in the villages keep them active. All in all, a perfect combination, whether for one week or a century…
Add on: While so close it’s worth considering visiting the World Heritage Site of Paestum, a major ancient Greek city, which can be added on at either end of your walk.
Very important: This route is available as ‘App only’ – you will navigate using the new On Foot Holiday Companion App (it contains all your holiday documents too), and won’t receive printed materials. See more here.
Walked by On Foot staff: Mary, Fi
Consider pairing this route with Amalfi Coast (under 3 hours by taxi, train and ferry); Southern Tuscany (7 hrs by taxi and train), or Umbria (5 hrs by taxi and train) – for more details click here.
TRAVEL ADVICE: To find the latest travel advice from the Foreign & Commonwealth Office for UK citizens travelling to Italy, click here. Citizens of other nations will also find it useful, but should always check their appropriate local agency.
REVIEWS: For independent walker reviews of this route submitted to the Association of Independent Tour Operators visit AITO.com.
Route Highlights
- The Cilento National Park
- Medieval hill and coastal villages
- The Mediterranean diet – the elixir of life?
- Unspoilt countryside and life reminiscent of times gone by
- Crystal blue Tyrrhenian sea
- The Greek temples at Paestum (add-on)
- Expansive views across to the Amalfi Coast and Capri
- A warm welcome
This route features the following characteristics and interests: Coast, Mountains, Archaeology, Birdwatching, Food, History, Mountains, Wine
Things you should know
- Very important: This route is available as ‘App only’ – you will navigate using the new On Foot Holiday Companion App (it contains all your holiday documents too), and won’t receive printed materials. See more here about our walking app.
- The paths are not consistently waymarked – the App will guide you in moments of uncertainty.
- Out of season (i.e. any time that’s not seen as high summer), the towns and villages can be very quiet with a limited number of restaurants and shops open. For some, that’s the complete joy!
- A trip here feels like travelling several decades ago, and a warm welcome and lots of questions await.
- Little English is spoken in places – remember your Google Translate app too.
We Recommend
Consider spending at least one night at Paestum at the beginning or end of your holiday. The archaeological site has what are considered to be some of the best-preserved Ancient Greek temples in the world, including in Greece itself!
Take an extra night in Acciaroli after the walk to recuperate and enjoy the long stretch of golden sand.
Eating and drinking
Cilento is where the Mediterranean diet first came to the world’s attention, courtesy of Ancel and Margaret Keys. The diet focuses on fresh, local ingredients (mainly fish and vegetables and little meat) and is said to be the reason many Cilentans live to be over 100.
It’s also said that much of Italy’s best Mozzarella di Bufala comes from the region, and while in Paestum, visit a buffalo farm and taste the wares.
The ancient Greeks brought viticulture to Cilento and wines in the region are made with the same passion today. Cilento is a large, powerful DOC responsible for innovative wines that highlight the uniqueness of this part of the country. The Cilento Fiano is one of the most important white wines and Aglainico a robust red.
Limoncello is ubiquitous, of course, as an after dinner digestif, but a lesser-known, sweet liqueur is Finocchietto, made from the seeds of wild fennel giving it a strong, herbal flavour.
How much Walking?
Using shortening options: 8-12 kms, 2¼-3 hrs with shortening options and some lifts
While this walk is graded Medium, it only reaches this category due to the challenging nature of the two circuit walks – the Punta Licosa and Rocca Cilento circuits. If you’re looking for an altogether easier holiday, you can choose to walk to Punta Licosa and back on mainly level paths, and avoid the challenging Rocca Cilento circuit in favour of spending the day in the village. The grading then becomes Easy-Medium overall.
Note that our accommodation in Castellabate is on top of a hill; the gradings assume you will make use of taxis.
Signed paths (not always consistently but navigation is not difficult).
Highest point on route: 1120m.
Medium: Average cumulative uphill stretches (CUSs) 650m (350m-945m) per day.
Easy-Medium: CUSs 500m (350m-700m) per day using all shortening options (and not walking the full Punta Licosa circuit).
Acrophobia/vertigo warnings: Minor issues for short sections over narrow paths.
Important: Navigation is using the On Foot Holidays Companion app only (there are no printed materials provided).
Important note: Times given for each day are walking times for an “average” walker and exclude stops. “CUSs” stands for “Cumulative Uphill Stretches” and measures the aggregated ascents in each day, expressed in metres of climb. See “Walk Grading” for more information.
When to go?
The best months to walk: April, May, June, September, October
Other possible months: Late March
Cilento is a great walk from early spring and into autumn due to the warmth of the sea and its temperate climate. Holiday makers fill accommodation during July and August (and it’s hot) so we don’t recommend it then. Early and late season walkers be warned – it’s very quiet in the low season and few shops and restaurants will be open. That, some would say, is what makes it perfect. However it can still be very hot during June and early September, when plenty of rest days are useful.
Important: there are major public holidays at Easter, on 1st May and 2nd June, and accommodation is in high demand around these dates. Please avoid travelling during this period if possible or speak to us for advice.
Start Dates
Weather Chart
Temperature and rainfall chart for Agropoli
Itinerary
Day 1 - Arrive in Agropoli
... and settle in to your hotel. Explore the coast (perhaps a swim?) and then head up to the medieval centre of the village to find dinner.
Day 2 - Agropoli to Castellabate
Today’s lovely warm-up walk starts in the harbour town of Agropoli, at the start of the Cilentan coast. Make sure to save some time to explore its medieval heart if you’ve not already done so, before embarking on the walk, which passes the working harbour and after a section of quiet road, heads along glorious paths (flower-filled in spring) with some stunning coastal views.
There follows a long stretch along a sandy beach as you enter Santa Maria di Castellabate, so don’t hurry and make sure you take your swimming togs (and beach shoes to cope with the sometimes rocky conditions underfoot) to enjoy the beach and clear blue Tyrrhenian sea.
The popular Italian film ‘Benvenuti al Sud’ has scenes set in the town, so do save time to visit the bars (L’Arcata is recommended) and cafés set in old Travierso port, once a place of trade and later a shelter for fishermen. (Easy-medium: 3 hrs walking (allow 4 hrs), 11½ km (7 miles), CUSs 370m)
If staying in hilltop Castellabate, your host will collect you, or you can walk up if you wish!
Day 3 - The Licosa Circuit
Today’s walk starts easily enough by following a mainly level path to Punta Licosa, a rocky lookout named after a mythic siren from Homer’s Odyssey. Almost get your feet wet as you seek the continuation of the path beyond the breakwater and following a shady stretch through chestnut woods, climb then into the mountains for fabulous views back up the coast and across to the Amalfi Coast and Capri. Two watch towers make for great rest places to enjoy the flowers, butterflies and birdsong in springtime and complete peace all year round (we followed a jaunty Hoopoe showing the way ahead!).
Descend steadily back to Santa Maria de Castellabate. Enjoy the bars used in the filming of ‘Benvenuti al Sud’, of which locals are justifiably proud. (Medium-hard: 5 hrs walking (allow 6¾hrs), 18 km (11½ miles), CUSs 700m)
If staying in hilltop Castellabate, add 45 mins to descend to Santa Maria at the start, and your host can collect you at the end of the day.
Day 4 - Castellabate to Perdifumo
Today’s walk is definitely easier and allows time to explore the much-fortified medieval village of Castellabate (literally ‘Castle of the Abbot’), one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. There follows some navigationally unchallenging walking along ridge tops with glorious views on both sides to the village of Perdifumo (whose name comes from ancient Latin, meaning ‘At the Feet of the River’).
You will be met in the village square for your transfer – but we wholeheartedly recommend testing La Ruota Braceria bar (if it’s open) just on the outskirts of the village for some really good cakes. Rocca Cilento is marked by its mighty castle and will be your base for the next two nights. (Easy-medium: 2¼ hrs walking (allow 3 hrs), 8 km (5 miles), CUSs 360m).
If starting from Santa Maria di Castellabate, add 1 hr for the climb to hilltop Castellabate at the beginning of the day.
Day 5 - Rocca Cilento Circuit - the Valley of the Mills
Today’s circular walk takes you deep into the valley below Rocca Cilento and you will discover the romantic ruins of the numerous medieval watermills that once milled wheat and maize, served by the Sorrentino stream, a tributary of the Fiumara river.
First descend the ridge to the hamlet of Lustra with its well-preserved heart before joining a recently restored footpath down into the valley. There are the remains of 17 watermills but not all easy to see. Cross the River Fiumara at the bottom of the valley before a steep ascent that passes Valle Cilento, a pretty hamlet with lovely bell tower.
Descend once more to the valley floor and pass the abandoned village of Massacanina. Then comes another steep climb up to the village of Castigliano. From here, return to Rocca Cilento and enjoy the views of the valley you have just explored from its amazing hilltop vantage point. (Medium-hard: 4 hrs walking (allow 5¼ hrs), 12¼ km (7½,miles) CUSs 700m).
Alternative: No other walks yet, but ask your host Paolo if he can suggest a shorter option. Otherwise, spend the day getting well acquainted with Rocca Cilento and its castle.
Day 6 - Rocca Cilento to Galdo
After a short transfer, this is a glorious day along the Alta Via of Monte Stella, the geographical, spiritual and cultural centre of this part of Cilento. The Alta Via (High Way) is the main mountain path in the region and offers a vast panorama across the national park and down to the sea.
Whilst the walk is quite long, it’s not especially challenging and there are natural breaks to be taken while you explore the sacred dolmen dedicated to ‘The Illegitimate Son’ and again at the chapel of the Virgin of Monte Stella, still a place of worship today (but a little marred by a plethora of communications masts).
There follows a lovely descending path through chestnut woods to the tiny medieval village of Galdo (with a good café to greet you as you enter the village) and then the final descent past the lonely church of San Nicola to Il Mulino and a warm welcome from your host. (Medium: 4¼ hrs walking (allow 5¾ hrs), 11 km (7 miles), CUSs 550m)
Day 7 - Galdo to Acciaroli
Following a bit of a stiff climb back up to Galdo, today’s walk back to the coast feels very different to those that came before, but don’t be tempted to miss it out in favour of heading straight back to the sea – it’s a veritable voyage of discovery.
Pass under an arch and enter Celso, where uprisings against the Bourbon rulers began in the 19th century. Tales of patriotism of the sons of the colourful Mazziotti family are etched into the fabric of this fascinating village – if only those walls could talk.
Then comes Pollica where Margaret and Ancel Keys came in the 1960s in their quest for the secret to longevity and a greater knowledge of the Mediterranean diet, before Cannicchio, stretching out peacefully along a ridge.
But it’s not just the built environment that brings joy today – there are breathtaking views across the national park down to Palinuro and beyond, neatly summarising the walks that have gone before. A heady mix of untrammelled greenery, mountains and the wide blue sea.
Acciaroli is journey’s end – a quiet fishing port much beloved by Hemingway, where today you can enjoy sandy beaches lapped by the Mediterranean. (Easy-medium: 3 hrs walking (allow 4 hrs), 10 km (6½ miles), CUSs 350m).
Alternatives: You could follow the quiet road from your accommodation directly south to Cannicchio (saves 2½ km).
Departure day
Return home, or stay further nights in Acciaroli or head to Paestum for a night to explore the Greek temples.
Travel Information
ARRIVING BY TRAIN
Nearest railway station:
Start: Agropoli (or Paestum if starting there)
Finish: Vallo della Lucania-Castelnuovo (taxi from Acciaroli)
Typical rail journey from Paris and Rome:
Train from Paris to Rome ~13hrs*. Then on to Naples, change for Agropoli ~5 hrs.
From Acciaroli: Taxi to Vallo della Lucania-Castelnuovo, then train to Salerno/Naples and onward*.
* The Paris/Turin/Milan route was blocked by a landslide at Modane in August 2023, and is likely to be out of use until at least spring 2025. As of Nov 2024, one TGV train per day runs in each direction between Paris and Milan, with a bus connection around the landslide. See alternative routes here.
We suggest thetrainline.com for times, ticket booking and other information.
ARRIVING BY AIR
The best “local airport” is Salerno (opened in 2024 and not many flights). Intercontinental flights may use Rome/Naples then take a train directly to Salerno and from there the train to Agropoli.
SALERNO
Land by: 16:00 for train to Agropoli.
Return flight earliest: 11:00 (missing breakfast).
NAPLES
Land by: 14:30 if using public transport (later arrivals possible, missing supper).
Return flight earliest: 12:00 (missing breakfast).
Land by/earliest return flight times not applicable if using a pre-booked taxi.
Flight information can change rapidly and not all flights run daily. Please do check directly with the airlines’ websites or Skyscanner (see below) before finalising any booking with us. Do not book your flights until we have confirmed that we have provisionally reserved accommodation for you.
For up-to-date schedules and flights from all airports check Skyscanner.
See “Getting to the start of the walk” below for transfer information.
Getting to the start of the walk
The first hotel is in Agropoli and the last in Acciaroli. Transfer times and methods are suggested for Naples airport below. For train arrival transfers see below.
Transfers from train stations:
Outward: Walk or short taxi transfer from Agropoli station (10 mins by taxi)
Return: Taxi transfer to Vallo della Lucania-Castelnuovo train station (30 mins). Then direct train to Naples Central
NAPLES AIRPORT:
Outward: Bus from Naples airport to Naples Central train station then train to Agropoli (or pre-booked taxi transfer (supplement).
Return: Taxi to Vallo della Lucania-Castelnuovo train station, then train to Naples Central. Then airport bus (~€5 pp.~2½ hrs) OR pre-booked taxi from final hotel to Naples airport (supplement).
For all pre-bookable taxi prices, ask On Foot.
Full transfer advice, including timetables, is provided in your Transfer Information. Contact us if you would like additional pre-booking information.
Where You'll Stay
We love this walk as the hosts are warm and friendly and the accommodation authentic. In Agropoli, our hotel is down by the seafront and the rooms well equipped. If staying in Santa Maria, the hotel looks out to the sea (some have a large balcony to enjoy), and for those staying up in Castellabate the hotel is in the heart of the village, with a very nice cellar restaurant.
The next two nights in Rocca Cilento are spent in Antico Convento, renovated with love by Paolo and furnished with antiques. Then it’s down to Il Mulino in Galdo, where a range of newly refurbished rooms are spread across this fascinating estate.
Your hotel in Acciaroli has everything you will need at the end of your walk – a short walk across from the beach and with a spa to help massage away any aches and pains.
Night 1
Agropoli – Palazzo Dogana (B&B)
Converted customs house on the sea front, with a friendly welcome and large rooms. Simple breakfast.
Night 2 & 3
Castellabate – Palazzo Gentilcore (B&B)
Lovely rooms and a good restaurant, in the heart of the village.
Night 4 & 5
Rocca Cilento – Antico Convento (D, B&B)
Characterful 16th century building, tucked away in the town, with views and great cooking.
Night 6
Galdo – Agriturismo Il Mulino (D, B&B)
Working farm with a warm welcome and a good dinner - olives and figs from the farm and fresh fish.
Night 7
Acciaroli – Hotel La Pineta (B&B)
Newly renovated hotel with lovely views, spa, pools and private beach.
Agropoli – Palazzo Dogana (B&B)
Converted customs house on the sea front, with a friendly welcome and large rooms. Simple breakfast.
Website
Castellabate – Palazzo Gentilcore (B&B)
Lovely rooms and a good restaurant, in the heart of the village.
Website
Santa Maria di Castellabate – Villa Sirio (B&B)
A traditional hotel with lovely sea views and a good breakfast in the cellar.
Website
Rocca Cilento – Antico Convento (D, B&B)
Characterful 16th century building, tucked away in the town, with views and great cooking.
Website
Galdo – Agriturismo Il Mulino (D, B&B)
Working farm with a warm welcome and a good dinner - olives and figs from the farm and fresh fish.
Website
Acciaroli – Hotel La Pineta (B&B)
Newly renovated hotel with lovely views, spa, pools and private beach.
Website
Paestum:
Add a night in Paestum, just to the north of our route, at the beginning or end of your holiday to visit the ancient Greek city. We can book a hotel here for you, and have a few to suggest – ask us for more details.
Tenuta Duca Marigliano has a contemporary style within 19th century buildings, close to the historic site. It has a pool and small spa area.
Also close to the site is Villa Rita, a more budget-friendly option. This converted farmhouse has gardens and a pool for relaxing on a hot day.
Prices
7 nights in double/twin room, all breakfasts, 3 evening meals; luggage transfers between all hotels on walking route (Agropoli to Acciaroli); taxi from Acciaroli to Vallo della Lucania-Castelnuovo train station at the end of the walk; On Foot Holidays Companion app with route directions, transfer and background information; local telephone support.
All prices are per person unless otherwise indicated, and are based on a standard booking in May. Prices may vary seasonally and a fixed price will be given to you before you commit. Locally levied tourist taxes are not included.
Single Room Supplement (SRS): From £415
Lone Traveller Additional Supplement (LTAS): From £180
Maximum party size: 8
Add Ons
Additional B&B nights in any accommodation, nights in Paestum. Call for prices (vary with season)
TAXIS
Naples airport to first hotel: Ask On Foot
Salerno airport to first hotel: Ask On Foot
Salerno railway station to first hotel: Ask On Foot
Final hotel to Naples/Naples Airport: Ask On Foot
Final hotel to Salerno Airport: Ask On Foot
MINIBUSES for larger groups – contact On Foot Holidays
Travellers Blog
NEW ROUTE – Cilento National Park
Wednesday 21st August | Posted by On Foot Staff
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Our local team
Peter Hoogstaden
This route was designed by Dutch-born, Salerno-based adventure tour operator Peter Hoogstaden. Passionate about the ancient pedestrian route network all over southern Italy, Peter is today leading efforts to help visitors discover some of the less well-trodden paths. His route in the Cilento National Park is a perfect example: beautiful, uncrowded, and traditionally Italian to its core.
