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Bohemian Paradise
Countryside of the northern borderlands
Back to Routes
Castles and rock towns
Prague
The Bohemian Paradise
A Bohemian lake
The two towers of Trosky
Hrubá Skála
A lunchtime pub
Suché Skály Rocks
Kost Castle
The view from Hrubá Skála
Jičín
Travellers Blog
Easter traditions in Europe
Saturday 3rd April | Posted by On Foot Staff
view article
At a glance
6-night version (5 days walking) - the full walk. We recommend adding nights in Prague at the end (or beginning). See 'Prices' tab for what's included.
How much walking?
Full days: 13-22km per day, 4-6½ hrs walking
Using shortening options: Shortening possible on Days 4 and 6 only
Castles, rock labyrinths and fairytales
The ‘Bohemian Paradise’ is a landscape of meadows, pine forests and extraordinary sandstone rock formations – labyrinths of rock towers through which the walker will wind and clamber. Although an ‘easy-medium’ graded route, it is the odd short, sharp climb which tips it over into this category – most of the walking itself is easy. Situated at the northern edge of the Czech Republic, this historically rich area allows the walker a glimpse of rural middle Europe in microcosm. Fairytale castles, each with its own story, punctuate your journey, from Kost – one of the finest examples of its kind – to the volcanic double-coned Trosky. Moravian wines, local herbal liqueur and of course beer, for which the republic is famed, will, we guarantee, undo all the good work of the walking day. After a stay in the old town of Jicín, you should add a night or two in Prague at one of our excellent hotels.
Walked by On Foot staff: Simon (with his chums), Harriet, Debbie (and Thomas) and Patrick
REVIEWS: For independent walker reviews of this route submitted to the Association of Independent Tour Operators visit AITO.com.
ARTICLES: Read an article in The Guardian about On Foot’s Bohemian Paradise holiday here.
TRAVEL ADVICE: To find the latest travel advice from the Foreign & Commonwealth Office for UK citizens travelling to the Czech Republic, click here. Citizens of other nations will also find it useful, but should always check their appropriate local agency.
Route Highlights
- Mysterious rock labyrinths to explore
- Kost and Trosky castles, many smaller ones to visit
- Wooden cottages and baroque châteaux
- Pine forests, peaceful woodland glades and meadows
- Great value food, wine and beer
- A few nights in fabulous Prague at the end (supplement)
This route features the following characteristics and interests: Villages and farms, Woods, Drive to route, History
Things you should know
- Expect hearty fare – this isn’t a good route for particular dietary needs. Vegetarians may find the food repetitive (and vegans might struggle!).
- The accommodation is typical to middle/eastern-Europe and is short on luxury but full of character. There are no upgrades available other than in Jicin (to a suite) and in Prague.
- Transfers to and from the route are cheap and efficient, but can be time consuming. Taxis can be pre-booked – please ask us for a quote.
We Recommend
Extra nights in Prague to explore this fascinating city. Do also consider an extra night in Jicin, the 'gateway to the Bohemian Paradise' and discover the home town of Albrecht of Valdštejn...
How much Walking?
Using shortening options: Shortening possible on Days 4 and 6 only
Generally walking on well-signed paths, with good maps and simple route directions. Short, steep sections in rock labyrinths. The CUSs (below) is higher than easy-medium, but easy navigation brings it down a grade. Highest point on route: 550m.
Average cumulative uphill stretches (CUSs) 482m per day (300m-600m), or 380m (100m-600m) using shortening options.
Acrophobia/vertigo warnings: None – any vertiginous sections are optional.
On Foot Holidays Companion app available from 2025, for GPS navigation/mapping and all other documentation and advice. Separate GPX files for your own device also available.
Important note: Times given for each day are walking times for an “average” walker and exclude stops. “CUSs” stands for “Cumulative Uphill Stretches” and measures the aggregated ascents in each day, expressed in metres of climb. See “Walk Grading” for more information.
When to go?
The best months to walk: April, May, June, July, September, October
Other possible months: August
A continental climate means that the early spring can be cold, but from late April the flowers will start to blossom and later spring and early summer is idyllic. The tree cover on approximately half the route means you are able to do the walking during most of the hot Czech summer (although August can be hot) and the autumn can be lovely with the leaves starting to turn, and some warm days.
IMPORTANT: many attractions are closed on a Monday, so choose your start day carefully if you want to see inside Kost and/or Trosky, in particular.
Start Dates
Weather Chart
Temperature and rainfall chart for Turnov
Itinerary
Day 1 - Arrive at Turnov
Arrive at Turnov, settle in, perhaps have a stroll around the town to determine a suitable Czech hostelry for your hearty supper.
Day 2 - Turnov to Malá Skála
A pleasant day’s introduction to the Bohemian Paradise including a possible visit to a traditional farmstead just outside Turnov, then up above the Jizera river and through woods and fields before reaching your first ruined castle, Frydstejn, closely followed by the Gothic Vranov, just above Mala Skala. At the village itself you have a choice – either explore little Mala Skala and find the excellent pub, or after lunchtime refuelling, continue the walk to take in your first “rock town” at Besedice, with its fine viewpoints across the region, before returning to Mala Skala for an afternoon bus or train back to Turnov. (Medium: 3½ hrs walking (allow 4¾ hrs), 13 km (8 miles), CUSs 430m, excluding Besedice rock town excursion)
Day 3 - Turnov to Hrubá Skála
After climbing out of Turnov, you start with another castle (Valdstejn), then take in rock sculptures and a classic piece of Czech vernacular architecture at Kopicuv’s farm. To finish the afternoon, wind through the “rock town” past viewpoints and a spring, descending to a ravine before climbing back up to the promontory with your accommodation perched on top. (Medium: 3¾ hrs walking (allow 5 hrs), 12 km (7½ miles), CUSs 550m)
Day 4 - Hrubá Skála circular walk to Kost
Despite some quiet asphalt walking, this is a pleasant day, partly wooded, to majestic Kost, one of very few medieval castles in the Czech Republic. Towards the end of the day there is a not undemanding (but worthwhile) climb up to Vysker’s tiny octagonal chapel before winding down to a well deserved beer at your hotel. (Medium-hard: 6½ hrs walking (allow 8¾ hrs), 22 km (14 miles), CUSs 510m). Alternatives: take a taxi to Kost then walk back after an exploration of the castle (Easy-medium: 3 hrs walking (allow 4 hrs), 10 km (6½ miles), CUSs 100m).
Day 5 - Hrubá Skála to Prachov via Trosky
An easy wander through the forests and meadows, past the lake at Vidlak before a climb up to iconic Trosky (the castle of two towers). Then to the eerie solitude of another quiet lake in a forest at Dolni Mlyn. Finally into the woods again around Prachov, and your hotel in the pines. (Medium: 5 hrs walking (allow 6¾ hrs), 18 km (11½ miles), CUSs 600m)
Day 6 - Prachov to Jicín
Your final short (morning’s) walk through the forest, out into the open around Brada and perhaps a climb (for the young at heart) of Zebín; then to wander through the old town of Jicín, a look around its museum and a climb up the gate tower, before a hearty final supper in one of its many recommended restaurants and a good night’s sleep in our chosen hotel. (Medium: 5 hrs walking (allow 6¾ hrs), 15½ km (9½ miles), CUSs 300m. Shorter alternative missing out Zebin – Easy-medium: 3½ hrs walking (allow 4¾ hrs), 10½ km (6½ miles), CUSs 200m.)
Departure day (or Prague)
Leave for home – or maybe spend a night or two in Prague.
Travel Information
ARRIVING BY RAIL
Nearest Railway Stations:
Outward: Turnov
Return: Jicin
Typical rail journey from UK via Brussels, Cologne and Prague (~19 hours, www.seat61.com/Czech.htm ) – then train to Turnov, which can be the slow part of the journey! Alternatively www.bahn.de comes up with a multiplicity of possible ways from the north, bookable through them except for the final local train. Returning, Seat 61’s suggested routing (from Prague) looks lovely.
ARRIVING BY CAR
You can leave your car in the open air car park behind the Hotel Karel IV (own risk, no charge, leave keys at reception). Taxi back at end (supplement).
ARRIVING BY AIR
The best airport is Prague.
Land by: 17:00 for bus/train connections to Turnov. Later arrivals are possible but are not recommended. No time limit if using taxi.
Return flight earliest (if leaving from Jicin) 14:00 (departing from Prague, no limit)
Flight information can change rapidly and not all flights run daily. Please do check directly with the airlines’ websites or Skyscanner (see below) before finalising any booking with us. Do not book your flights until we have confirmed that we have provisionally reserved accommodation for you.
For up-to-date schedules and flights from all airports check Skyscanner.
See “Getting to the start of the walk” below for transfer information.
Getting to the start of the walk
The first hotel is in Turnov and the final hotel is in Jicin. Best airport is Prague. See below for suggested transfer methods.
Transfers from railway stations:
Outward: Hotel a walk or taxi ride from Turnov mesto station
Return: 15 min walk to train station
PRAGUE AIRPORT:
Outward: by bus or train 3 hrs, OR Pre-booked taxi transfer from Prague airport to first hotel ~1½ hrs.
Return: Bus and metro to Prague – onward shuttle bus transfer to airport.
For prices of pre-booked taxis see “Prices”.
Full transfer advice, including timetables, is provided in your Walkers’ Pack. Contact us if you would like additional pre-booking information.
Where You'll Stay
A wonderful variety of accommodation is offered on this route, from the simple but friendly, through the grander (and slightly pretentious) ‘chateau’ to a fine family run hotel in Jicin. Our hotels in Prague are excellent but each is very different – see below.
Night 3 & 4
Hrubá Skála – Chateau Hruba Skala (B&B)
Baroque chateau with pretensions in spectacular position.
Night 5
Prachov – Park Hotel Skalni Mesto (B&B)
Pleasant hotel in parkland setting. Small rooms, rather ordinary food but friendly service.
Night 6
Modern hotel with excellent facilities a short walk from the city centre.
Hrubá Skála – Chateau Hruba Skala (B&B)
Baroque chateau with pretensions in spectacular position.
Website
Hrubá Skála – Hotel Stekl (B&B)
Pleasant hotel with plain, but good sized, rooms and an excellent restaurant.
Website
Prachov – Park Hotel Skalni Mesto (B&B)
Pleasant hotel in parkland setting. Small rooms, rather ordinary food but friendly service.
Website
Jicin – Hotel ReStart (B&B)
A refreshingly up-to-date hotel with extensive facilities and modern furnishings. Hotel guests receive free entry to the hotel's 'Aquapark' (optional!).
Website
Jicin – Hotel Rieger (accommodation only)
Traditional Czech hotel in the city centre with colourful rooms and warm hospitality.
Website
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PRAGUE
A few nights in Prague before or after your walk is an excellent idea and we have two accommodation options to offer you.
Hotel Paris
A five-star Art-Nouveau hotel in the heart of the town complete with glittering cocktail bar. The staff are very welcoming (even to muddy-booted walkers!) and the rooms are spacious and well-equipped. The standard rooms are ‘Deluxe’ and then there is the option to upgrade to ‘Executive’ and then ‘Junior Suite’ and beyond, should you wish. Deluxe rooms from c. £110 per person, per night.
https://www.hotel-paris.cz/en/
Hotel Ventana
A boutique hotel located very close to the Old Town Square and Astronomical Clock. Rooms are a good size and well appointed. If your budget allows it, consider a deluxe skyloft or junior suite for some extra space and rooftop views. Superior rooms from c. £90 per person, per night. No twin rooms (separate beds) but each large bed-frame has separate bedding for two people (see picture below).
https://www.ventana-hotel.net/
Prices
Total 6 nights in double/twin room, 5 breakfasts (accommodation only in Jicin) and luggage transfers (Turnov to Jicin); full Walkers Pack with route directions, maps, transfer and background information; local telephone support.
Also included: On Foot Holidays Companion app (from 2025), providing navigation/mapping and digital version of the Walkers’ Pack as above. Separate GPX files for your own device also available. If choosing to walk with app only (no printed materials): Discount of £40 per pack (based on one pack per room) from 2025.
All prices are per person unless otherwise indicated, and are based on a standard booking in May. Prices may vary seasonally and a fixed price will be given to you before you commit.
Single Room Supplement (SRS): From £180
Lone Traveller Additional Supplement (LTAS): From £125
Large Party Saving (LPS): Groups of more than 2 people (on an identical itinerary, on the same booking and booked at the same time) – discount of at least £10 per person
Maximum party size: 10
Add Ons
Taxi Prague airport to first hotel (c. 1.5 hrs): From £125 (1-4 people); £165 (5-8 people)
Taxi from Jicin hotel to Prague hotel: From £110 (1-4 people); £150 (5-8 people)
Taxi from Jicin hotel direct to Prague airport: From £115 (1-4 people); £155 (5-8 people)
Local bus/taxi/train as required: Arrange locally
Sending Walkers Packs to addresses outside the UK: £20-£60 (per pack, location dependent)
Travellers Blog
Easter traditions in Europe
Saturday 3rd April | Posted by On Foot Staff
view article
Our local team
Lubomir Hoska
Born in the region, Lubomir has his own travel agency and tour operator business and combines that with being a professional guide. Your local contact is Petr Hoska, who knows the area well.
