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England: Coastal Exmoor
A literary landscape
Back to Routes
Looking back to Lynton
Porlock Weir (photo: S Milne)
Exmoor ponies
Lush greens of the East Lyn valley
Dunster with its medieval castle
Spring lambs (photo: P Simnett)
Dunster Castle
Porlock Bay
Tiny Culbone Church
Castle Rock guards the Valley of Rocks
Gallox Bridge leads to journey's end
Travellers Blog
Walk with the Romantic poets
Thursday 2nd September | Posted by On Foot Staff
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At a glance
6 nights (5 days walking) - the full route. We recommend extra nights in Lynton or Lynmouth and/or Dunster. See 'Prices' tab for what's included.
Suggested route pairings: Devon, Dorset, Cornwall or Welsh Borders
Dog-friendly with some alternative accommodations.
How much walking?
Full days: 11-22km per day, 3-6 hrs walking
Using shortening options: 8-14km per day, 3-4 hrs
A literary landscape
In contrast to the more crowded sections of the South West Coast Path, the part along the North Devon and Somerset coasts is not only quieter but of quite a different character, and we at On Foot Holidays have taken the opportunity of adding some lovely inland stretches not normally included. The result is a magical combination of coastal walking (including the highest point on the South West Coast Path), Exmoor itself, cosy villages and some striking literary connections.
This is Lorna Doone country – the heroine of R D Blackmore’s Exmoor-set historical tragedy – so prepare the hankies. You can visit the church she married in, as well as other places connected with her tale, and much of the second half of the walk uses the Coleridge Way (named for the English Romantic poet who made his second home in this area).
The 6-night version starts with a short taxi transfer from the railhead town of Barnstaple to the sea village of Combe Martin and your first night’s accommodation. Here you can settle in, take a stroll down to the sea and select somewhere for a good supper to prepare yourself for the next day’s walking. The route starts with an immediate climb up to Great Hangman, high over the Bristol Channel, before dropping down to stay in the secluded valley of Heddon’s Mouth and its National Trust run hotel. A day of coastal walking to the twin towns of Lynton and Lynmouth, linked by a venerable cliff railway, is followed by a stretching circuit taking in Foreland Point, Countisbury Church and the beauty spot of Watersmeet on the East Lyn river. Then the ‘Lorna Doone’ day to Porlock Weir, surely one of the prettiest ports in the region – maybe an oyster supper? – and finally a long walk over the north slopes of Dunkery Beacon to historic Dunster, with its unmissable castle, High Street and a range of eateries. Your holiday should end (we recommend) with a trip on the privately run West Somerset Railway to (almost) Taunton, and home.
Walked by On Foot staff: Simon, Andy, Debbie, Emma (and her mum), Aaron
Consider pairing this route – Dorset/Coastal Exmoor (2½ hrs by train), Coastal Exmoor/Devon (1½ hrs by bus and train), Coastal Exmoor/Cornwall (5 hrs by bus and train), Coastal Exmoor/Welsh Borders (5 hrs by bus, train and (included) taxi) – for more details click here.
REVIEWS: For independent walker reviews submitted to the Association of Independent Tour Operators visit Aito.com.
Route Highlights
- Variety of coastal walking and wide views
- Traditional villages and a taste of the moors
- Literary connections – Lorna Doone and Coleridge
- Lynmouth and the story of the Flood
- Picturesque Porlock Weir
- Historic Dunster – a great end to your walk
This route features the following characteristics and interests: Coast, Villages and farms, Dog friendly, History
Things you should know
- The remoteness of North Devon is a plus for those looking to get away from it all, but also means lengthy transfers to and from the route.
- Public transport until reaching Dunster is lacking, so walk shortening options mean a local taxi which may have to come some distance – lifts with the luggage are not possible.
We Recommend
Extra nights in Lynmouth/Lynton.
An extra night in Dunster to give time for exploring the castle there and the many tea rooms... undoing all the good of the previous days' walking!
Gourmet eating opportunities at Porlock Weir (Locanda on the Weir) and Dunster (Reeves) - will need prebooking.
Consider pairing this route - Dorset-Exmoor (2½ hrs by train), Exmoor-Devon (1½ hrs bus-train), Exmoor-Cornwall (5 hrs bus-train), Cornwall-Exmoor (4½ hrs by train)
How much Walking?
Using shortening options: 8-14km per day, 3-4 hrs
Generally the signage is very good (following the South West Coast Path acorn and Coleridge Way plume). The highest point on the coast is Great Hangman (between Combe Martin and Heddon’s Mouth) at 318m; high point on the route as a whole is between Lynmouth and Porlock Weir at 400m. Some parts of the coast path between Combe Martin and Lynton may worry the acrophobic. Paths and tracks, some quiet asphalt.
Medium-hard: average cumulative uphill stretches (CUSs) 625m (450m-850m) per day.
Acrophobia/vertigo warnings: No major issues, though the narrow cliff path courses sometimes along steep hillsides.
On Foot Holidays Companion app available from 2025, for GPS navigation/mapping and all other documentation and advice. Separate GPX files for your own device also available.
Important note: Times given for each day are walking times for an “average” walker and exclude stops. “CUSs” stands for “Cumulative Uphill Stretches” and measures the aggregated ascents in each day, expressed in metres of climb. See “Walk Grading” for more information.
When to go?
The best months to walk: April, May, June, September, October.
Other possible months: July, August (but this is peak UK holiday time, so availability can be difficult!); November, February, March (shorter options)
This walk is best in spring and autumn, but beware of shorter days from late October to mid-April, when it may also be rather wet and muddy!
Start Dates
Weather Chart
Weather and rainfall chart for Lynton
Itinerary
Day 1 - Arrive in Combe Martin
After a 30 minute taxi ride from Barnstaple station (normally included, though bus also an option), settle into your accommodation. Allow time to visit the sandy beach and choose somewhere to dine tonight.
Day 2 - Combe Martin to Heddon's Mouth
Your path ascends swiftly from the beach up to Great Hangman and along the edge of the cliff with views over to Wales. A final stretch takes you away from the coast on a small road to the tiny village of Trentishoe before reaching your destination of Hunter’s Inn, deep in its wooded fastness, close to the smugglers’ bay known as Heddon’s Mouth. (4 hrs walking (allow 5¼ hrs), 11 km (7 miles), CUSs 600m)
Day 3 - Heddon's Mouth to Lynton/Lynmouth
A gentle and relatively short day’s walking along barely accessible and spectacular parts of the coast, Woody Bay, the pastoral setting of Lee Abbey, the Valley of Rocks and finally to the Victorian charms of Lynton/Lynmouth for a late lunch. Make time to explore the museum dedicated to the Great Flood of 1952. (3 hrs walking (allow 4¼ hrs), 10¾ km (6½ miles), CUSs 470m)
Day 4 - Countisbury Circuit
You might decide to take a day off, but you would miss a splendid and varied day, taking in some fine coastal walking to Countisbury, with an opportunity to divert to the lighthouse at Foreland Point, a look at Countisbury church with its carved screen, then a descent to the wooded valley of the mighty East Lyn river. We recommend a diversion along the river to Rockford for a pub lunch before the final stretch takes you high above the valley for some great views and a beautiful wooded descent into Lynmouth. (4 hrs walking (allow 5 hrs), 13½ km (8½ miles), CUSs 650m)
Alternatives: Miss out Foreland Point and/or Rockford diversions, and take the flat river option back to Lynmouth. (Using all available shortening options: 2 hrs walking (allow 2¾ hrs), 7 km (4½ miles), CUSs 200m)
Day 5 - Lynmouth to Porlock Weir
A long but rewarding day, initially following the Coleridge Way and later rejoining the South West Coastal Path as you head down into Porlock Weir. After a gradual climb beside the East Lyn river, head into Lorna Doone country with a steep climb up from Oare. The afternoon encompasses coastal scenery with spectacular views across the Bristol Channel and to Wales before some woodland walking past Culbone Church, England’s smallest complete church, to your destination at Porlock Weir with a magnificent vista of Porlock Bay and beyond to Hurlestone Point. (6 hrs walking (allow 8 hrs), 22 km (14 miles), CUSs 750m – shortenable with a taxi at start – supplement)
Day 6 - Porlock Weir to Dunster
Pleasant woodland walking at first with glimpses of wonderful panoramic views, then a climb up to Webber’s Post with vistas of glorious rolling high hills and the distant view of Dunkery Beacon, Somerset and Exmoor’s highest point. The traverse across the northern slope of Dunkery Hill and gentle descent into Wootton Courtenay provides, with good weather, spectacular and distant views across the West Somerset landscape, and continues on to picturesque Dunster, entering the village over historic Gallox Bridge. (5½ hrs walking (allow 6¾ hrs), 20 km (12½ miles), CUSs 450m)
Depart for home
The best way to start your journey home is via the steam railway to Bishop’s Lydeard (when operational) and onward bus to nearby Taunton station, or a bus all the way. Or why not stay a further night or two to visit Dunster Castle and to relax?
Travel Information
ARRIVING BY TRAIN
Nearest railway station:
Start: Barnstaple (change at Exeter St David’s)
Finish: Taunton
Sample journey by rail:
Via London: London Paddington to Exeter St David’s, then train to Barnstaple (~3½ hrs)
Dunster to London: taxi (included) Dunster to Taunton, then train to London Paddington (~3 hrs)
We suggest thetrainline.com for times, ticket booking and other information.
Taxi (normally included) from Barnstaple station to Combe Martin and from Dunster back to Taunton station.
ARRIVING BY CAR
Driving isn’t the easiest option, but you can leave your car at the Multi-storey car park (payable locally) in Taunton which is situated across from the railway station and then take a train on to Barnstaple.
Long term parking may also be available in Dunster at Dunster Steep car park, again subject to space being available (not pre-bookable but use the PayByPhone App; 7 day permit costs approx. £25). You will then need a taxi on to Combe Martin (supplement from £85).
ARRIVING BY AIR
Best “local” airports are Exeter or Bristol, but connections are good from the London airports.
Flight information can change rapidly and not all flights run daily. Please do check directly with the airlines’ websites or Skyscanner (see below) before finalising any booking with us. Do not book your flights until we have confirmed that we have provisionally reserved accommodation for you.
For up-to-date schedules and flights from all airports check Skyscanner.
See “Getting to the start of the walk” below for more detailed transfer information.
Getting to the start of the walk
The first hotel is in Combe Martin, the last in Dunster. Transfer times and methods are suggestions from London Gatwick and London Heathrow airports, but if you arrive at Bristol or Exeter airports, then transfer times will be shorter in most cases.
GATWICK AIRPORT
Outward: train to Barnstaple, change at Reading and Exeter St David’s (~5 hrs). Taxi or bus on to Combe Martin.
Return: Taxi from Dunster to Taunton (included); then train to Gatwick, change Reading (~3½ hrs)
HEATHROW AIRPORT
Outward: Heathrow Express to London Paddington, train to Barnstaple, change at Exeter St David’s (~4 hrs). Taxi or bus on to Combe Martin.
Return: Taxi from Dunster to Taunton (included); then train to London Paddington and Heathrow Express to the airport (~2½ hrs)
Full transfer advice, including timetables, is provided in your Walkers’ Pack. Contact us if you would like additional pre-booking information.
Where You'll Stay
A splendid range of accommodation from boutique town hotel through to country house hotel to village pub, all welcoming walkers (and most dogs too!).
Night 1
Combe Martin – Channel Vista (B&B)
Traditional B&B on the principal road out of the village, 3 minutes from the beach. Friendly welcome from Michelle.
Combe Martin – Channel Vista (B&B)
Traditional B&B on the principal road out of the village, 3 minutes from the beach. Friendly welcome from Michelle.
Website
Combe Martin – Pack of Cards (B&B)
Wacky building with intriguing history half way up the long high street (ten minutes to the beach). Riverside garden, good kitchen.
Website
Heddon’s Mouth – Hunter’s Inn (D, B&B)
Newly refurbished but still bursting with heritage and character reflecting its tranquil setting alongside the river.
Website
Lynton – St Vincent Guest House (B&B)
Built in 1834 by master mariner Thomas Geen (captain on the Bristol-built ship St Vincent) allegedly for his mistress (more research underway!), this Georgian house is full of history, character and charm.
Website
Lynton – Crown Hotel (B&B)
A former coaching inn with good rooms, set in an ideal place to explore the village.
Website
Lynmouth – The Bath Hotel (B&B)
Hotel with lots of character and beautiful rooms - most with some sort of sea view.
Website
Porlock Weir – Bottom Ship Inn (B&B)
Comfortable and popular pub with traditional food and ales.
Website
Porlock Weir – Porlock Weir Hotel (B&B)
Relaxed accommodation with superb rooms and grounds.
Website
Dunster – Luttrell Arms Hotel (B&B)
Historic 15th century hotel within sight of Dunster Castle.
Website
Dunster – Dunster Castle Hotel (B&B)
Well-appointed rooms, mostly overlooking Dunster's cobbled high street.
Website
In Lynmouth we have another alternative: upgrade to the welcoming and family-run Bath Hotel with its eclectic rooms, most with sea view.
Prices
Total 6 nights in double/twin room, all breakfasts, 1 evening meal, 2 packed lunches, transfer to your first night’s accommodation, luggage transfers between all hotels on walking route; full Walkers Pack with route directions, maps, transfer and background information; local telephone support.
Also included: On Foot Holidays Companion app (from 2025), providing navigation/mapping and digital version of the Walkers’ Pack as above. Separate GPX files for your own device also available. If choosing to walk with app only (no printed materials): Discount of £40 per pack (based on one pack per room) from 2025.
All prices are per person unless otherwise indicated, and are based on a standard booking in May. Prices may vary seasonally and a fixed price will be given to you before you commit.
Single Room Supplement (SRS): From £330
Lone Traveller Additional Supplement (LTAS): From £210
Large Party Saving (LPS): Groups of more than 2 people (on an identical itinerary, on the same booking and booked at the same time) – discount of at least £20 per person
Maximum party size: 10
Please note that weekend stays (Fri and Sat nights) in Lynton or Lynmouth may be subject to a minimum 2 night stay and a supplement.
Add Ons
Extra nights and upgrades: Contact On Foot Holidays (seasonal pricing)
Sending Walkers Packs to addresses outside the UK: £20-£60 (per pack, location dependent)
Travellers Blog
Walk with the Romantic poets
Thursday 2nd September | Posted by On Foot Staff
view article
Our local team
Louise Hughes
Louise has lived in North Devon since 2000, enjoying the area around this rugged coastline and her passion for gardening. A beach baby at heart, Louise travelled the world in her youth and still enjoys trips to Europe and walking the different coastlines and beaches especially in the Greek islands. She loves the varied North Devon landscape, from sandy beaches, spectacular cliffs, wild moorland and sheltered valleys.
